Accurately Calculate Stitch Gauge

I have read so many ways to calculate gauge, it sometimes makes my head spin. In this blog post, I am going to describe how to ACCURATELY measure gauge. And how to use these numbers.

Most knitters make a gauge swatch then count the number of stitches in 4" or even 1".  But this method isn't really accurate. 

How to Measure Gauge.

For basic fabrics of 1 to 2 st multiples where stitches are easily identified.

First make a gauge swatch that is at least 4".    

Using Marking threads, mark a set of stitches. Do not include selvedge stitches. If marking a gauge swatch, you will measure along the center horizontal. Here is an example in Seed Stitch that is marked for measuring stitch gauge.

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Marking threads can also be placed to measure rows. Don't include any cast on or bind off rows.

Be sure the marking threads are thinner than the project yarn and that you place them between stitches. 

 

 

 

Count the stitches between the threads and then measure the distance between the marking threads. Measure to the closest ⅛ inch. On the example below there are 21 stitches measuring 4 ⅛”.

Convert the fraction to a decimal.
(1⁄8 = .125, 1/4 = .25, 3⁄8 = .375, 1⁄2 = .5, 5⁄8 = .625, 3⁄4 = .75, 7⁄8 = .875)

In the example 4 ⅛” = 4.125”

Divide the number of stitches by the measurement.
Example: 21 ÷ 4.125 = 5.09090909090909

This gives you stitches per inch.

Uses for this measurement:
Figuring out the size of piece. — Don’t round this number.
Figuring a cast on number for a certain size. — Don’t round this number.
Figuring a ratio for seaming or picking up stitches — This number should be rounded.

If you are following a pattern or writing a gauge statement for a pattern, multiply the unrounded sts per inch by 4 to get the number of stitches per 4”.

5.09090909090909  x  4 = 20.36363636363636.  This number is rounded to the closest whole number.  For this example 20 sts = 4”.

 For fabrics with larger multiples.

A multiple is a set of stitches that repeats horizontally. There are two types of fabrics that fit this category.

The first type is a motif that runs vertically and has spacer stitches between the motifs.
The multiple for this type of pattern is the motif + one set of spacer stitches.
Below is an example. The swatch shows a cable with 2 rev st st between each cable.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Notice there must be “extra” stitches to horizontally balance these patterns. These “extra” sts should not be included when measuring gauge. Remember, the multiple is the set of sts that is repeated. So for this cable pattern there are 3 reverse stockinette sts and all of the stitches that make up the cable in each multiple. 3 reverse stockinette stitches are added at the end of the row to horizontally balance the pattern.

To measure these types of patterns, measure the most whole multiples you can. And again, measure along the center horizontal.

The second type of motif structure is a tessellated motif. In this situation, the motif moves both vertically and horizontally. Extra stitches are used to “cap” the start and end of the motif at the sides. In this situation, use all of the stitches, but don’t include any background stitches to either side or above/below the motif. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The following is a gauge worksheet that you can use to calculate gauge. 

GAUGE WORKSHEET

Determine Stitch Gauge

Measure the width:
 (1/8 = .125, 1/4 =  .25, 3/8 = .375, 1/2 =.5, 5/8 = .625, 3/4 = .75, 7/8 = .875)

Count the number of stitches:

Divide the number of stitches by the width. This gives you the number of stitches per inch. Do not round off the number.

Number of stitches per inch:

Multiply the number of stitches per inch by 4 to get the number of stitches in four inches. Round the number up or down.

Number of stitches in four inches:

Determine Row/Round Gauge

Measure the length:
(1/8 = .125, 1/4 =  .25, 3/8 = .375, 1/2 =.5, 5/8 = .625, 3/4 = .75, 7/8 = .875)

Count the number of rows or rounds:
(Do not include the cast on or bind off edges)

Divide the number of rows/rounds by the length. This gives you the number of rows/rounds per inch. Do not round off the number.

Number of rows/rounds per inch:

Multiply the number of rows/rounds per inch by 4 to get the number of rows/rounds in four inches. Round the number up or down.

Number of rows/rounds in four inches:


If you are getting fewer stitches than the recommended gauge, try using a smaller needle size.
If you are getting more stitches than the recommended gauge, try using a larger needle size.

Once you have calculated the gauge on your unblocked swatch, block the swatch and remeasure the gauge. 

 The blocked swatch will tell you your finished gauge. But you will need to work to your unblocked swatch gauge in order to have the finished gauge match the finished gauge of your swatch once you block your project.