Generating Charts for Knitting Patterns: Part 1-- Types of Charts

I’d like to share with you information on how to incorporate charts in knitting patterns. These posts are not about learning to read and work from charts. To understand and use this information you will already need to know how to work from charts.

Types of Charts.

There are three methods for charting.

1. The chart shows the RS of the fabric.
2. The chart is configured to reflect the directions as written.
3. Special stitches and stitch patterns

For most patterns you will be using either method 1 or method 2.

Charts that show the RS of the fabric.

This method has quickly become the most popular method for knit patterns. The advantage to using this method is that it makes it easier for the knitter to read her knitting and follow along the chart.  For this method, symbols used on RS and WS rows will need both a RS and WS designation in the key. 

Using this method Chart 1 below shows stockinette stitch. Each blank box should tell the knitter to k on the RS and p on the WS. 

Chart 2 below shows garter stitch. In addition to the blank box written as above, a second dot box would be added stating to p on the RS and k on the WS.

Legend or Key # 1 would be used for these charts if the chart were to show the RS of the fabric.

Charts that are configured to reflect written directions.

This method is not used as popular as the above method however, some designers still insist on using it. There will be an occasional instance when this method may be the clearer way to chart. The drawback with this method is the knitter cannot see the end fabric being worked. Many knitters find themselves confused if they are accustomed to using charts showing the RS of the work.

In the example below, Chart 1 now shows garter stitch and chart 2 shows stockinette stitch. Legend 2 would apply. These charts read similarly to knitting directions. RS rows are still read right to left and wrong side rows, left to right, but the knitter simply follows the direction that the symbol indicates.  In chart 1 each blank box says to knit, so the knitter would knit every stitch, thus creating garter stitch. For chart 2, the knitter would knit the RS rows and purl the WS rows, creating Stockinette stitch.  

Example 1                       

Example 2

Legend 1

Legend 2

Most knitters will be more familiar with method 1.  The important thing to keep in mind is if you are presenting multiple charts, don't use both methods in the same pattern-- pick one or the other. 

Special Circumstances. 

Some stitch patterns use their own method of charting. Instances include Traveling or Bavarian Twisted Stitches, Mosaic Knitting and some lace charts. 

Still Life Days 3-7------PAINT

First Layer

Fourth Layer:

Final Layer with Frame

Begin again:

Steps to Still Life Days 1 & 2

1. Set up the still life.

 2. Draw the still life. Probably the hardest step for me because of the perspective/proportion issues I have. I used medium vine charcoal but #4 pencil would have been a better choice as the charcoal erases too easily.



















 3. Tone the canvas.  I will be working with 4 colors-- Venetian Red, Yellow Ocher, Titanium White and Ivory Black. The canvas is toned in Venetian Red.

4. Grid the drawing and canvas. Transfer the drawing to the canvas.

5.  Set the drawing with paint and remove the grid from the canvas.

Thoughts on December 18 2012

Knitting since my last post. Or at least what I have photographed. Many things in progress, but here are a few finished items.

An unexpected goodbye. Logan's Bayou 1991-2012.

Venetian Red, Yellow Ochre, Titanium White, Ivory Black The combinations are endless?

Finished--White Hot

KAL: Converting Bind off Row Shoulders to Short Row Shoulders

Posting a little late. A couple of you have already done this. But here it is written out.

I am not going to work the stair stepped shoulders that this pattern calls for. Because the base stitch pattern is stockinette, it will be very easy to convert to short rows and then three needle bind off.If the pattern remained lace, this would not be an option.

It’s fairly easy to convert a pattern from bind off shoulder to short rows.

First note the bind off sequence.
There typically be 6-8 rows for the back of a piece. 3-4 rows per shoulder.

For the back:
To work the first short row, instead of binding off the set # of stitches. Knit until you’ve got that number of stitches left on the needle. Turn the work, yarn over, and purl until you’ve got that same number of stitches again remaining, turn the work and yarn over.

For the next rows you will work in the same manner but add to the original number the next number of sts, then turn and yarn over just the same.

Example:
Pattern reads
At the beg of every row bind off 8 sts twice, then 7 sts four times.

Short rows:
Knit until 8 sts are left, turn, yo.
Purl until 8 sts are left, turn, yo.
Knit until 15(16 if you include the yarn over) sts are left, turn, yo.
Purl until 15(16 if you include the yarn over) sts are left, turn, yo.
Knit until 22 (24 if you include the yarn overs) sts are left, turn, yo.
Purl until 22 (24 if you include the yarn overs) sts are left, turn, yo.

Next row Knit across working the yarn overs with the stitch after the gap.
Next row Purl across working the yarn overs with the stitch after the gap.

When you work the fronts you eliminate either the purl or knit rows depending on the side you are working on. The right front will work the knit rows and the left front will work the purl rows.


How to work the yarn overs with the stitch on the other side of the gap:

Work to the gap:
On the Knit side: Work either an ssk or k2tog. Choose the decrease which allows you to work the yarn over first. ( ssk-- you will see: yo-gap-stitch k2tog---you will see: stitch--gap--yo)

On the Purl side: Work either an ssp or p2tog. Choose the decrease which allows you work the yarn over first (ssp--you will see: stitch--gap--yo p2tog-- you will see: yo--gap--stitch)

KAL Update

We're all cast on and ready to knit.

Things to remember.
Place a marker after the first set of side st st stitches and before the last set. These should be the same number.

Place a marker between the 3 purl sts and the chart stitches. The center section should go:
St sts, marker, p3, marker, chart A, marker, p3, marker, chart B, marker, p3,marker, chart A marker,p3, marker, chart B, marker p3, marker, side sts.
If you are making the Large there will be an extra ---chart A, marker, p3, marker, chart B, marker, p3 before the final side sts.

Yarn overs
From k to k. Bring the yarn to the front. Begin next st. Bring yarn over R needle. Knit next st

From K to ssk or k2tog. Bring the yarn to the front. Begin next st. Bring yarn over R needle. K2tog or ssk

From k to p Bring yarn to front, over right needle and back to front. Purl the next st.

From p to k (or ssk or k2tog) Leave yarn in front, begin next stitch( or decrease), bring yarn over needle and work next st.


Count count count.
Too many sts, you probably forgot a decrease, you may have forgotten to pass your slipped sts over.
Too few sts, you probably forgot a yarn over.

Lifelines.
Place the lifeline after you've worked a return row so you don't have to deal with running it through yarn overs.
Thread tapestry needle with crochet thread. Run through the stitches along the needle. Go around the stitch markers.
Place the lifelines every so often as you feel comfortable.

Measuring.
Be sure to stretch the lace out to simulate the blocked fabric when measuring.
I am using the steamer to block every 3-4" before measuring.

Decreases.
The A line decs occur in the purl sections that divide the charts.


Did you notice that rows 1-8 of chart A are the same as 9-16 of chart B and rows 9-16 of A are the same as 1-8 of B?
Did you notice the charts are mirror images of each other?

I've gotten 7 repeats of the charts done.






I am planning on working the shoulder shaping differently then the pattern and using a three needle bind off. But that's for later...



Keep Knitting!